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The complexity and variety of my knots, and the fact that I make them on commission rather than mass-producing them, requires that the ordering process follow a slightly more convoluted path than is found on other commercial sites.
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The ordering process involves several steps:
- Choose item
- Specify pattern <== (number of leads, number of strands, colors)
- Specify size
- Obtain price <== (varies, based on materials used)
- Arrange payment
- Inspect completed item (picture, posted online)
- Accept shipment
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It is not necessary to complete all these steps immediately, and, in fact, I would prefer that the details be resolved interactively. Email or telephone exchanges with me will save a lot of time and trouble. Don't hesitate to call me or send me a quick note via email. Going to my order form and filling in all the details that make sense to you would give us a starting point, and does not commit you to anything at all. I wouldn't accept payment until I know what's being ordered, anyway.
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(A rather critical factor in all of this is that I must be able to exchange information with you. If you don't provide me with a valid email address, or a telephone number, I will be unable to respond. If your mailbox is blocked, or your email host requires some sort of handshaking or pre-approval, my messages will simply bounce into oblivion.)
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As a matter of policy, if I receive an order for ridiculously expensive pieces, or ridiculously large quantities, to be shipped in a hurry to unusual destinations and to be paid for by credit card, I just ignore them. (see an example) (Let me hasten to reassure you that I have no trouble distinguishing valid orders from scam orders, so don't hesitate to get in touch. The scammers won't read this, and won't have the slightest idea how to actually order from me, anyway, so your message will get through, I promise.)
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Choosing an item:
Choosing the jewelry is pretty much up to you, of course. I have rings, bracelets, and earrings that I make to order. Pendants are just larger earrings, generally, even when they're wrapped around a stone of some sort. Chains are made with a series of knots, and are seriously labor intensive, time consuming, and commensurately expensive.
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Specifying a pattern:
The most common knot pattern I use is the single-line Turk's Head, with at least five leads, up to (so far) eleven leads. By this time you will have examined at least a few of these, elsewhere on the site, but if you are not yet able to distinguish between "leads", "bights", and "strands", please take this opportunity to check out my labeled example.
At this point you should also decide what color you would like, and whether there should be one, two, or three strands, and whether the latter should be solid, twisted, or a mixture of the two.
Note that I do not distinguish between solid and twisted wire in my pricing, as the work I add to the twisted wire is offset by the somewhat reduced effort required to tie knots in it. Different colors do present some added effort, though, as I don't normally stock them, so a surcharge of $35 is added to orders involving colors other than yellow gold.
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Weave, Width, and Loop Density:
I have a whole page devoted to a discussion of these topics, but it can be boiled down. Do you want the ring to be very tightly woven, with no space, or loose enough that the wires can shift around visibly, and a lot of light can be seen between the strands?
If you are selecting a ring based on its weave and complexity, I may have to recommend a different pattern for the size required -- you can ask for a particular pattern, or ask for a particular loop density, but not both at the same time.
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Specifying a size:
There are only three situations that require that I know the specific size before I start work, two of these being rings and bracelets. Earrings and pendants are not size dependant, although I can accommodate varying tastes in that department. The third situation where there is a need to be precise as to size is if you want me to make a knotted bezel for a stone, but that would be a minor consideration among the other complications of such a project.
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If you do not know your ring size, there are ways to overcome that difficulty. Call me or email me for details. You may consult this chart that compares various international standard ring sizes.
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One thing to remember is that my rings are somewhat adaptable, at least over a range of a couple of sizes. To see what I mean, look at the video clips I've provided on another page. There are limits on how much a ring can be stretched or compressed, but there is a lot of latitude.
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A bracelet must be made large enough to slip past the largest part of the hand (or over the heel, in the case of an anklet), and that measurement can be made with a tape measure, preferably to the nearest quarter of an inch. Again, call or write if you have any doubts.
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Obtaining a price:
If your order is for a ring or for a bracelet, and you've got a good idea of which one it is, you can look it up on my price list. There may be other factors to take into account, such as unusual colors, and the current cost of metals, that can affect the final cost. Once I have all of the information and have given you a price, I will honor that price even if materials or circumstances increase my own costs. For a short discussion of my reasoning when it comes to prices, see this page.
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In order for me to begin work, I ask for a 50% deposit in advance. This may be waived for established customers, or at my discretion. This deposit is refundable, within limits. Once the work begins, the refund will be reduced by the cost of materials expended. Here's a shortcut you can use: (you may edit the amount)
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You may also pay by check, either using a physical check in the mail, or by scanning the front and back of a check made out to me in the appropriate amount. Most smartphones now have cameras adequate to the task, so lay the check on a plain non-reflective surface to take the picture, and try to frame the two sides similarly. The advantage of this is that I can deposit it within hours of your sending it, and get right to work on your jewelry.
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Shipping:
I normally use USPS Registered Insured, which is inexpensive but reliable, and pay the cost out of my own pocket. Rush delivery or international shipping will be billed to the customer.
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Arranging payment:
Payment can be made either directly, with checks, money orders, or other financial instruments, or via credit card by way of third parties. PayPal has worked out very well. In order to use a credit card directly, you should call me at 727-347-0593.
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Note that rush orders must be paid directly, via money order, certified check, or wire-transfer in order to avoid the necessary delay for check-clearing. "Rush order" does not mean that I make the ring quickly, it means that the time I spend on it has to be fitted into a smaller period between receiving a deposit and shipping the item. I may have to shift other customers in the queue, inconveniencing them as well. Orders received with less than two weeks notice before the item needs to be shipped will be handled on a case by case basis, and will be charged a premium at my discretion. Six weeks is preferred. The clock doesn't start until I've actually received a deposit and can order materials, since nothing can be done at my end until that critical stage.
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Bargaining:
My prices don't change often, as they are not profoundly affected by the cost of materials. If you wish to pay less, you may request suggestions on materials that I might find less difficult to work with. For example, silver is a brilliant white metal that looks great with gold, and is much less trouble to work with than platinum. I charge for the most difficult metal involved in the piece, so a silver and gold ring would be much less expensive than a platinum and gold ring.
Also, a simpler knot in the same size will cost less, because the wire crosses itself fewer times. There are limits, as I would hate to ship anyone a ring that I regarded as aesthetically challenged.
I have occasionally traded jewelry for other items, usually art or precious gems -- my current non-jewelry interests are photography and computers.
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International:
International orders must use cashier's check or other guaranteed financial instruments, in US funds. Verified PayPal members may use that method. Credit card orders accepted only with the understanding that jewelry shipment will be held for up to 90 days to ensure against fraud. Please do not ask me to lie about the value of my jewelry on an official document to avoid customs liability.
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Direct charging:
I regret that my sales volume is not high enough to justify the expense of direct credit card payments through my site. As my work becomes better known and business improves, I hope to change that. In the meantime, I have a 3rd party online credit card clearing service, and if you call me directly, I can accept up to $300, using Visa or Mastercard. No debit cards, please.
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Contact information:
Loren Damewood
P.O.Box 48543
St. Petersburg, FL 33743-8543
(727) 347-0593 (24/7)
lorenzo@golden-knots.com
AOL Instant Messenger: goldknots
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Most email should get through my spam filters, but the most absolutely certain method to get my attention is to use either one of the order pages or the contact page. You should get a response within less than a day.
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Pre-shipment inspection:
My usual practice is to photograph or scan the completed item and place a picture of it on my website, then send the URL to the customer for approval. Since each one is unique, as individual as a fingerprint, I can't show you what it looks like until I've finished it. If it doesn't look right, I'll do it over until it does, before I ship.
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Receiving inspection (and return policy):
If there is any question in your mind as to size, color, or any other factor within my control, I want to know about it. My customers are a select group, few in number, but all very happy with my work. I would rather refund every cent and get my work back than risk even the mildest dissatisfaction being voiced against it.
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Warranty:
I will replace any jewelry that does not satisfy the original buyer, as long as it is returned in good condition within ninety days. I will repair any piece returned to me by the original buyer, at my discretion, i.e., I'll be glad to reshape distorted rings, repair individual broken wires, etc, but not if it has been untied or has clearly been subjected to unusual stresses. A nominal charge may be assessed for the work, in addition to return postage. It is normal for the wire to wear thinner over time, depending on how frequently it comes in contact with tools and everyday objects, and this is not covered.
The jewelry I produce is all hand made, frequently using tools that are also hand made. It is not possible for them to have a machine-made appearance, so I do not guarantee "perfection" at all. However, I do guarentee beauty.
Note that there are circumstances that will void the warranty, as mentioned above: in addition to untying the knot or subjecting it to unreasonable stresses, I strongly recommend against wearing any of my rings as "pinky-rings", as this exposes the edges to considerably more likelihood of impact than they would expect on an inner finger. Also, wearing a second ring adjacent to any of my knotted rings will cause damage to it over time. If it is on the same finger, the edges will wear. The only solution to this is to fuse all the wires together on that side. If it is on an adjacent finger, it will wear down the high spots, and there is nothing I can do to correct this.
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